Adventures in South America

Food in BA

Well, we have been to many restaurants over the last month and I wanted to take the time to write more about Porteño gastronomia. As the exchange rate is very favorable to the dollar, we have been eating out a great deal – at least once a day. In general we are averaging about $8- $15 per person for a good meal. The most we have spent for any one meal has been about 100 Peso – or about $35 US per person – for a 3 course meal including wine at one of the finest restaurants in BA. In a future post (when I have time to list them all!) I will write in more detail about the many memorable restaurants that we have been to. On this post I wanted to take the time to talk about the food here in general.

There is one thing that is in overabundance here in BA – Beef, beef and MORE BEEF. Bife de Chorizo (Sirloin), Bife de Lomo (Tenderloin), Chorizo (a type of smoked sausage that is usually grilled), Mollejas (Sweetbreads), Riñones (Kidneys)… you want it, you got it. A girl can get tired of Filet Mignon all the time ;). But if you are in the mood for steak, you can’t go wrong at any restaurant. It is a sure bet. It is much, much leaner than the beef you find in the states – the cows are generally fed a diet of grass from the pampas (instead of corn like the US), and they are run on the plains as opposed to being kept in a pen. Makes for a much healthier, more flavorful cut of steak than what you find in the US.

Chicken is also common. Good fish and seafood is a little harder to find. There is usually at least one fish dish on the menu and 90% of the time it is Salmon, occasionally a trout or hake. As far as shellfish, you can sometimes find Mejillones (Mussels), which I have found to be a little grittier than the ones I am used to in the states, or Langostinos (Prawns, or shrimp that are bigger than popcorn shrimp), but they tend to be expensive and not as good as you find in the states. This is a meat and starch kindof place. You can find vegetables and salads here, there are even some vegetarian only places, but you will probably enjoy your eating experience more here if you eat some beef.

The population here is made up mostly of Europeans, with the large majority descended from Spain and Italy. These foods you can therefore find in abundance and of good quality – lots of pasta, tapas, paellas and pizzas. Like most major cities worldwide, there is fine dining French food. There are people descended from Armenia, Poland, Germany, Ireland, Syrian, Greek, and Lebanese here (among others), so there are good restaurants representative of these cuisines. There is also a large Jewish community here, so Kosher restaurants and delis are not uncommon.

In addition, there are newer types of cuisines and foods that are emerging and resulting in a fusion of these tastes that suit the Argentinian palate (ummm…. Not too spicy please!!) – Swedish, Chinese (there is a Chinatown in an neighborhood called Belgrano), Brasilian, Peruvian, Mexican, Sushi (for the most part Salmon is the most common raw fish served – have yet to find any raw red tuna!) and Pan Asian (some Vietnamese and Thai influences).

Some other Argentinian Items that we have been consuming in copious amounts –

Empanadas - baked savory turnovers that come with various fillings including beef, chicken, corn, ham & cheese, spinach and several other flavors. An Argentine version of a Jamaican Patty, or a calzone. They are a great pick me up for when hunger pangs hits between the 2pm lunch and the 10pm dinner. My favorite are the Carne Cortado al Cuchillo (small pieces of beef cut with a knife - not ground, usually with olives, onions, tomatoes and other spices) and Humita (a type of thick corn filling).

Café – Coffee – usually a Café Cortado (a small cup of espresso with a drop of milk), a Jarrito (a doble cortado – 2 shots of expresso with a drip of milk), Café con Leche (half espresso, half milk), or Cappucino. They also have something called a Lagrima which has a drop of coffee and the rest is milk. Café culture is very similar to how it is in Europe. You can spend hours on end over a single cup and newspapers or magazines without being harassed by a waiter pressuring you to buy something else.

In general going out for a café or meal here is a very leisurely event. You can easily spend 2 or more hours eating a 3 course meal without feeling pressured by the waiter to leave. In fact, the waiter will never bring you the check unless you specifically ask for it. Very different from NY where they practically drop the check off at your table as soon as the last forkful of food hits your mouth.

We have also been eating some great fruit here. As it is summertime, peaches, plums and melons are in season. And I have yet to have a bad piece of fruit here. Great for detoxing after all that meat and starch!

Another observation – in general at restaurants here you seat yourself. You walk over to an empty table and sit down. Unless it has a “reservado” sign on it, its yours!

In general we have been eating in Palermo Viejo, the neighborhood we are staying in. It’s a very trendy area with a wide variety of New York style, high design restaurants with inventive menus… but without the NY attitude. Honestly, the service has been amazingly friendly at all of the restaurants we have been to – from the shabbiest to the most high end. Maybe we are just jaded by NYC...

Anyway, restaurant reviews to come!

posted by Kathy T @ 2:42 PM