Tuesday, February 28, 2006

Close Encounters of the Elephant Kind...

This morning we went on our 4th and last game drive and it was by far one of the most scary incredible experience of my life and without a doubt to everybody else that was on the ride. There were 8 of us on the ride and I think all of us believed that we might not make it out of this situation alive… all this due to elephants. After a rainy, very wet night, the rain subsided enough that we could leave four our drive around 6am. Due to wet conditions I don’t think any of us were expecting to see much. Along the way we passed a few antelope but nothing we had not seen before. About an hour into our drive we saw elephants!! About 8 or so, who seemed in a hurry to go somewhere. They crossed directly in our path and we all scrambled to take pictures. It was an awesome sight. The last elephant stopped for a few seconds, looked at us and flapped it’s ears in an aggressive stance but quickly moved on. Wanting to see more, we speculated that they were trying to catch up with the rest of the herd, so Brendan (ranger) and Erick (tracker) moved quickly to catch them on the other side of their path. And catch up to them we did!! There must’ve been a pack of 30-40 elephants of all ages and sizes that crossed our path within 20-30 feet of the vehicle. As the last elephants crossed our path, that’s when the problem started. Words can not describe how scary the experience was… the Matriarch of the path started us down and for whatever reason, perceived us as a threat. She flapped her ears out in an aggressive stance, and the standoff began. Although account of the actual time the standoff lasted vary from those of us involved from 3-15 minutes, I think a safer guess I 4-5 minutes. It’s really hard to convey these minutes in writing… the elephant stared us down, then a 2nd elephant joined the stare down with her calf in tow and effectively blocking our path. The Matriarch got closer and closer to the vehicle, ears flapped out. The matriarch charged two times, then stopped (faking us out a bit) each time stopping closer to the vehicle. By this time we were all very, very scared. Brendan and Erick stayed deceptively calm. Mom was hovering next to Dad, Seth was sitting next to me quite shaken, I was trying to stay calm and was asking Brendan to “please drive away”. I think we were all honestly fearing for our lives. Brendan calmly explained to us that we have to scare off the elephant and he shouted at the elephant to go away (you scare an elephant by trying to make more noise then it does). If we drove away there was a good chance that the elephant would chase us and trample us. There was also the issue of the other elephant blocking our path. Erick told Brendan make more noise – he turned on the engine, revved it a few times and honked the horn. Brendan had forgotten this step. The matriarch in what appeared to be a final warning slammed into a tree a couple feet away from the vehicle, flinging some thankfully small branches into the vehicle (some of them hit mom and landed at her feet). Brendan had to think quickly and this was, he realized, our only chance for a getaway. The other elephant calf had moved from the road, thus clearing the path. We had a split 2nd to move while the elephant who was stunned from hitting the tree had turned away. Brendan knew that the next move would be a car stampede by the elephant. Brendan knew that it was likely the elephant would chase, but calculated we would be able to get a head start while he recovered from the blow. About 2-3 seconds after we took off the elephant began galloping in pursuit of us!! You can imagine our fear!! Thankfully the elephant turned away after 10-15 seconds. We continued speeding away, looking to make some distance between us and the elephants. About 5-10 minutes down the road Brendan stopped the car to talk to us. Although he appeared calm during the standoff. He explained to us that he had experienced lions charging at him, has had numerous experiences with elephants and other animals, but this was the least control he felt an all his experience. He really felt that he was either going to have to drive into the bush (off the road) behind a tree and rip out his rifle to kill the elephant – to prevent us from being stampeded. He really felt the elephant was not going to back down - & it didn’t – it chased us. Brendan showed us his hands & they were shaking. Knowing that Brendan was scared made me even more frightened. And from that point on we were all nervous, looking behind and around us constantly and getting even more nervous every time Brendan stopped to show us antelope or giraffe. I don’t think any of us really wanted to be anywhere except for a safe place. You must keep in mind that it has rained every night and morning that we were at Akeru. The roads were very muddy, rivers and waterways that are normally crossable were flooded with rainwater. This added another dangerous element, that was heightened by our elephant encounter. What is we got stuck in mud/clay? I think that was when the gravity of the whole situation stuck. I had definitely seen enough of the “big 5” by that point. Close to camp Brendan stopped to show us a baby python. He stopped the car, picked it up from the side of the road and brought it closer to the car. Eva broke down in tears. Apparently she is afraid of snakes, but I think it was also the gravity of the situation that hit her. We were all relived to arrive back at camp soon after. Over a delicious breakfast of fresh fruit salad, cereal, orange and guava juice, scrambled eggs, toast, bacon, home fries and sausage, we recounted what had happened with Thabo and Dale. I am relieved that this happened on the last day of our safari experience – non of us (except Dad) wanted to go out again. Even driving to the airstrip to catch our small chartered plane was a little unnerving. Posted by Picasa


An after dinner drink! Amarula is a type of fruit grown in South Africa Posted by Picasa


Kathy (in the tracker seat) with Eric Posted by Picasa


A birthday cake for Dad!! Posted by Picasa


A chameleon Posted by Picasa


Dinner at Akeru Posted by Picasa


Brendan, our guide, taking the time to explain our surroundings Posted by Picasa


Kathy holding a millipede Posted by Picasa


Eric, our tracker, ready to join the guests in evening sundowners Posted by Picasa


Gearing up for the evening drive Posted by Picasa


A HUGE dung beetle Posted by Picasa


A huge termite mounds Posted by Picasa


Enjoying sundowners during an evening game drive Posted by Picasa


Waterbucks Posted by Picasa


Zebras Posted by Picasa


A giraffe peaking out from behind a tree Posted by Picasa


Thabo and his sister - two of the wonderful staff members at Akeru Posted by Picasa


Kathy, Thabo and Seth Posted by Picasa


Mom & Dad's hut at Akeru Posted by Picasa


Relaxing at Akeru's Lodge Posted by Picasa


The grounds at Akeru Posted by Picasa


Warthogs on the grounds of Akeru Posted by Picasa


Warthogs Posted by Picasa


Giraffe Posted by Picasa

Safari Misadventures

Yesterday we arrived at Akeru Lodge in the Timbavati Game Reserve. Unfortunately we arrived to rain – our flight from CPT to Jo’burg to Nelspruit was delayed as a result and we could not fly from Nelspruit to Timbavati – the original plan was to fly in a small chartered plane. It would’ve taken about an hour that way. Instead we were greeted by a man named Derrick @ the gate and he informed us that we would be arriving at Akeru via a 3 hour car ride. The ride was comfortable – an 8 passenger van with just the 5 of us inside.

We arrived at Akeru at 5pm and were greeted by Thabo, Dale and Hayley. Akeru is a small camp that can accomodate up to 16 guests. The rooms are nicely appointed with each having a patio, a full bathroom with seperate tub and shower, and mosquito netting on all of the beds. Akeru also does not have electricity. They use rechargable battery power and every hut has one plug for a fan. At night you eat by candlelight and burning candle lamps are provided in your room before your arrival from the evening game drive. It's kindof cool to feel so at one with nature! It's very quiet at night, except for the occasional call of the wild :-)

The afternoon/evening game drive had left at 4pm so after settling in Dale drove us to meet up with the group that had left.

As a general rule, the safari camp itinerary is as follows:
5:00am - morning wake-up tap on door by Safari Guide. There is generally tea, coffee and a light snack such as granola bars offered before departing
5:30am - 9:00am - Morning Game Drive (all game drives are conducted in a 12 passenger land/range rover 4x4 vehicle)
Return to camp, freshen up
9:30am - 10:30am - Breakfast
10:30am - 1:30 - Relax, Walk with guide around the bush, if weather permits (we weren't able to do this because of the amount of rain we experienced. When it rains the tracks get washed away and it becomes more treacherous - you could stumble upon predatory animals who are sleeping and possible hungry).
1:30pm - 3:00pm - Lunch
4:00pm - 8:00pm - Evening Game Drive
8:00pm - 9:30pm - Dinner

People tend to turn in early to be prepared for the 5:00am wake up call.

Our fellow safari-mates were Eva and Carl, a very nice couple from Sweden. During the evening drive we take a break in the bush to watch the sunset to enjoy sundowners (beverages you drink while the sun is setting - usually with alcohol - but it can be any beverage) and snacks - peanuts, chips, etc. The first evening we saw some Impalas and Waterbuck. Due to the rain it was harder to track the animals so we didn't see as many as we would have liked.

Upon arrival back to camp we freshened up and waited for the beating of drums which signifies that it's dinner time. Our first dinner consisted of Salmon Croquettes, mashed potatoes, sauteed fresh vegetables and a delicious mango and apple crumble. It was nice to sit around the table by candlelight hearing the adventures of our fellow guests and the Akeru staff members that were sitting with us (every meal 2 staff members sit with you).

This morning, due to pouring rain, we started out a little later than usual. Today we saw Giraffes and Zebras. In the evening we saw a fleeting glance of a White Rhino. Posted by Picasa